very sparse population and – as you see – very low level of traffic. o’boys, how i love these velvet-coated antlers in the middle of nowhere!! a reindeer herd is a sort of a super kick-ass matriarchy. a cow decides. it is the leader cow who knows, or decides, where to go: if the ice will hold and when it is time to migrate from the fell country to the lowlands. it’s the leader cow who knows when it is time to return to the calving grounds in the spring. deep within my innermost being i am totally dependent on that clacking sound, the sound of reindeer hooves. it’s almost metaphysical. especially the white reideer – it is for the bliss 😉